Michel Gahier Arbois Blanc Melon La Fauquette 2013

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Always the grandest of Michel’s white wines, “Fauquette” spends nearly four years in barrel without topping up. This cuvee, again from a single vineyard in Montigny, is aged for one year in large foudres at which point it is then racked into smaller barrel for an additional three years 'sous voile.' Called Chardonnay, the vines are of the local variety known as 'Melon Queue Rouge,' a white grape the skin color of which bleeds towards red as it approaches the stem. It is somehow the most marked by voile yet the most elegant: viscerally salty, with the finesse and heft of great Corton-Charlemagne, but speaking that honest and particular tongue of the Jura—adamantly not a wine of ambition or identity crisis. It is a wine both brash and poised, both aggressive and articulate, and it will provide years of positive development for those lucky enough to obtain it and patient enough to cellar it.

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